Round The World With A Fridge

Introduction

Nicola, a friend from the UK, came and did this tour from Sydney to Brisbane in a campervan with me. We had such a good time I thought I'd write a guide for anyone who'd like to try it. (It's written in the singular because it was originally intended to be a guide on a different website...I'm not pretending Nic doesn't exist :) Yep, this is what I've been doing for the past couple of weeks.

Via: Pacific Highway (coastal route)
Distance: ~965km
Non-stop travel time: ~15 hours
Best between: June and December

Preparing for the journey

Firstly, you'll be needing some transport. There's several options open to you - you'll either buy something on the cheap or rent. Buying avoids the fees associated with hire vehicles (return fee, cost per day, add-ons like awning charged daily, LPG refills, insurance, etc) but be aware that different states have different regulations regarding tax, MOT and road worthiness which can result in huge fines.

Choosing between a car, 4x4, van or campervan is an important decision and will influence your level of comfort and the amount of money you can spend on your travels. For example, travelling in a car will probably be the cheapest transport option, but you'll have to pay for B&B's/hostels/hotels ... or sleep in your car - and who wants to sleep in a car?! I hired a campervan (from Britz) which had a double bed, shower, fridge, microwave and gas cooker powered by LPG. While I hardly used the shower and cooker, and really could've managed without them, it did mean that I could park almost anywhere for the night. If I do the trip again, I think I'd plump for a normal van and stay at more resorts - they're pretty cheap but obviously won't be for everyone.

Also, standard campervan insurance doesn't allow you to venture off sealed roads onto dirt tracks. My guide specifically doesn't use dirt tracks for that reason.

Ok, so once you've got your transport, you'll be needing some supplies:

1. Water - lots of it. Maybe a 6 pack of 2 litre bottles. Why so much? If you get a flat tyre, or need to wait for a motorway to open because of a bush fire, you'll be needing water to keep you - and maybe your vehicle - cool.
2. Some food. You shouldn't need too much as there's some nice places on the road to stop, have a break, and get something to munch. Things like oat bars, fruit and nuts keep reasonably well and don't need any preparation.
   
3. A detailed road map. There's plenty of second hand book shops where you can get a good deal, but most of the hire centres have them for sale too. While the roads you'll be driving on hardly change from year to year, occasionally the government puts a toll booth on a road so have some currency in your wallet.
   
4. Music! Australian radio can be quite terrible and has lots of talking and adverts.
5. A mobile phone. Goes without saying really. On the Sydney to Brisbane trip you should get a signal the whole time you're travelling so you won't need to hire an expensive satellite phone.
   

Day 0: Sydney

I stayed in the Vulcan Hotel in downtown Sydney (Ultimo) - it's a clean and modern hotel with friendly staff and good food. If you've got an evening to kill I highly recommend Icebergs at Bondi Beach which isn't particularly cheap but has an awesome dining area and a lush bar. Icebergs is well known for it's good food and it's one of the 20 things Lonely Planet says you must do in Sydney. Booking essential. A taxi from the hotel should be around $20/25.

Day 1: Sydney to Cessnock/Pokolbin (Lower Hunter Valley)

Assuming you've picked up your transport already, leave Sydney over the Harbour Bridge (enjoy the view of Sydney Opera House on your right). Plough through the northern Sydney suburbs and after around half an hour the scenery will change. You'll pass a few beaches so grab a swim if you feel like it - today is an easy drive north. If you're keen to get to the wineries of the Hunter Valley (I was!) skip through Cessnock to Pokolbin where you'll find a multitude of wineries - including Jacobs Creek.

If there's a bush fire in Northern Sydney you have a couple of options. Drive as North as you can, stop where the police tell you too, and wait for updates. On the day I left we had to wait 6 hours for the authorities to get the fire under control, but obviously this depends on lots of factors. If you don't want to wait and hope they reopen the road, go back and West to Windsor and take the ferry over the river there. Be warned though, when Northern Sydney is blocked, lots of people use the ferry. There are a couple of ferries but the most one ferry can take is 20 cars at a time. Choose wisely!

Day 2: Hunter Valley

A day for wine tasting.

I'd recommend the McGuigan Cellars at Pokolbin - whack some golf balls into the pond to win prizes at the driving range, visit the world-class gardens, and of course, sample some of the best wine of the region. There's absolutely no pretentiousness about wine tasting here!

Wines I tried: Tempus Two - Ziggy (blend), Tempus Two - Semillon/Sav. Blank, Tempus Two - Cabernet Merlot, McGuigan Gold - The Red

There's an information centre (with ATM and cafe) at Pokolbin which is the best place to find out what's going on in the region, info about wineries and accommodation, etc. Definitely a useful stop.

Day 3: Hunter Valley to Newcastle

Your head might be a little bit sore this morning from all that wine so today is an easy drive to Newcastle on the coast. Newcastle is a fun little town, and while not much happens here, the beach is a good place for a swim and there's a few beautiful spots around the place. Up on the hill, an Obelisk looks out to sea - marking the first site of water when the first settlers founded Newcastle. Today it's an amazing place to stand at dusk or dawn and watch a whole 360 degree panoramic of the city. I parked nearby on top of the hill, facing the sunrise which was quite special one morning.

By the evening your hangover should've disappeared so walk down the hill to the Crown and Anchor bar/nightclub on Hunter Street. Upstairs is a balcony restaurant come nightclub so depending on the time of day either try the food or sample the frozen cocktails from the "washing machines" on the wall.

If you've got time visit nearby Bogey Hole (I hear it's good for skinny dipping if you're into that) or for a walk along the coast where you can see the different layers of rock, including a layer of coal.

Day 4: Newcastle to Coffs Harbour

Today is a bit of a drive, especially as there's plenty to see along the way. Leave Newcastle early morning and join the Pacific Highway north bound. Take a detour to Elisabeth Bay (turnoff at Bulahdelah) where there are some nice beaches and interesting towns. Port Macquarie is a good place to have lunch if you want to stop somewhere civilised.

I stayed in the Emerald Beach Holiday Park so that I could recharge the battery in our campervan and have a decent shower. It's a wicked little place, and part of the Big 4 network of holiday parks so you'll probably get a discount if you're driving a hire van. Not only does it have the cleanest toilets and showers I've seen in a holiday park, but it has a giant inflatable bouncy "pillow", it's close to the town, is a 5 minute walk to a lovely beach - perfect for your morning swim, and has shops and two excellent restaurants nearby.

Room 101, a romantic little restaurant just around the corner from the Emerald Beach Holiday Park, does the finest steak this side of Australia. Not only did the staff go out of their way to cook a late meal for me (I arrived as they were about to close), they also recommended some excellent wine - better than the ones I tried in the Hunter Valley. I can't say enough nice things about this place.

Before you skip town for the next destination, make sure you visit the Big Banana - one of the many "big things" in Australia. There's also some toboggans and ice skating if big bananas don't float your boat.

There's a regularly updated guide to Coffs Harbour if you need some more information.

Day 5: Coffs Harbour to Byron Bay/Sawtell

Most of the people I spoke to in Sydney said that I must visit Byron Bay because it's so beautiful and after passing through places like Newcastle and Coffs Harbour, it'll seem a bit more "hip". Over the past few days you'll have gone from cityscapes, to rolling vineyards, to rain forests, to hick towns and arriving in Byron Bay will bring you back to a bit of civilisation.

I arrived late in the afternoon just as a storm was rolling in. As I walked along the beach, I contemplated that having seen arguably the best beaches in the world in Thailand, I was now looking at the most romantic. While Byron Bay can be romantic, many Aussies pass it off as pretentious, touristy, or cheap. If you agree, do what the Aussies do, visit Sawtell - checking out the beach and RSL.

Fish Heads right on Byron Bay beach by the car park does great fish and chips and outstanding oyster boxes. Avoid the Great Northern Hotel on the main drag, apart from the pool tables, it's quite like a giant version of a skanky Wetherspoons.

Day 6: Byron Bay to Gold Coast

Today you'll be travelling up the splendiferous Gold Coast, entering from the south via Tweed Heads (look out for the Big Prawn!). Avoid the temptation to stop at the exotically named Palm Beach and Miami and continue on until you reach Surfers Paradise (Main Beach) where you can park up, pull your clothes off, and dive right into the warm blue water. In the excitement, don't forget to stay between the flags where it's safest to swim - away from the danger of being hit by a surf board or swept away by the current.

There are so many places to eat, drink and sleep on the Gold Coast that I wouldn't know where to start. I just picked a Big 4 holiday park to park up in, recharge the batteries again, and fill up with water. It wasn't particularly good, so I won't recommend it.

Day 7: Gold Coast to Lamington National Park

Lamington National Park, west of Springbrook, is a 200sq km hinterland of walks and wildlife. To get there go via route 90 (off M1) towards Canugra and then on to Binna Burra. Binna Burra is a good base for your adventures with its information centre (pick up a free map and some advise on where to walk), restaurant/tea room and Binna Burra Mountain Lodge (advance booking essential) with its rooms, camp site (powered and unpowered sites available). The thought of a national park (bushes, trees, walking) might sound a bit dull to some, but nowhere else will you see so much wildlife roaming around freely. On the day I visited, I saw a kangaroo, a wallaby, several large black lizards, a huge monitor lizard, a blue lobster and a variety of coloured birds. Watch out for bandicoots, flying foxes, koalas and other strange creatures!

You will need: water, study shoes, insect repellent, waterproofs, some food if you plan on eating lunch there, a torch, a first aid kit and a camera.

If you've got some time on your hands, and aren't too keen to get back to the Gold Coast strip, swing by Tamborine Mountain nearby for some amazing scenery and waterfalls. There's an information centre at North Tamborine.

Day 8: Lamington to Brisbane

Just over 2 hours drive away from Lamington is Brisbane, your final destination. Follow the M1 into Brisbane (there's a new toll booth not mentioned on roadmaps or Lonely Planet guide yet) and return your campervan.

I'm assuming that after a week in a campervan you're looking for some TLC so jump into a taxi and head for the Hilton Brisbane, located in the heart of the CBD providing easy access to everything Brisbane has to offer. I personally wouldn't bother with the extortionate prices of the hotel restaurant and bar - you're 5 minutes away from all the best restaurants and bars (Jo Jo's on Queen Street is a modern Pizzeria/Thai/Steak restaurant and bar with a relaxed atmosphere - no booking necessary) so hit the street for a wander (most stuff is on Queen Street, Elizabeth Street, Edward Street or Adelaide Street).

Alternatively, if you're on a budget and fancy something cheaper, try the Brisbane Manor (formerly The Tourist Guesthouse). The 2-bed rooms are a bargain at about £14/night and have a TV with cable, a fridge, and an ensuite bathroom with a nice shower. Downstairs has a kitchen and a laundry room, perfect for washing all your skanky campervan clothes! There's not much atmosphere but it is cheap so you can't complain. Avoid the dorms at your peril.

If you need some Internet access to upload all your photos, ignore the crazy prices in the Hilton ($17/7GBP for 30 minutes!!) and walk up to Global Gossip on Edward Street near Central Station.